Resort & Snowcat Skiing
Monarch Mountain:
A Little Ski Area with Big Rewards
The traverse to an open bowl of snowcat-served terrain at Monarch Mountain, Colo.
We went to Monarch Mountain on the prowl for its fabled powder. Instead, the mountain served us sastrugi.
And, no, sastrugi is not a Bavarian cream puff pastry.
Oh, if only it was something as tasty as that. No such luck. Sastrugi is wind-eroded snow that often looks rough, like frozen waves, and is usually found on windward slopes.
Yes, siree, the wind had been whipping for days before our arrival at Monarch Mountain, and the snow in the open bowls where the ski area offers its snowcat skiing screamed signs of Mother Nature’s brutal onslaught. We’d been looking forward to cat skiing ever since we booked the trip in December, but here we were in April, talking with the guides about how we’d have to cancel it unless the wind died down and the sun warmed up the snow enough to make it safe for skiing.
Monarch Mountain
& Snowcat Skiing
Colorado
Physical address: 23715 W. Hwy. 50, Monarch, CO 81227
Mail address: 1 Powder Place, Monarch, CO 81227
Ski area phone: (888) 996-7669
Internet: www.skimonarch.com
E-mail: use contact form on website
Base elevation: 10,790 feet
Summit (inbounds): 11,952 feet
Summit (snowcat-served):
12,134 feet
Acreage: 800 acres inbounds (includes hike-to terrain); 900+ acres cat-served
Snowcat logistics: Snowcat operates from the end of December until mid-April, conditions permitting. Reservations are required. Space is limited to 12 guests daily, so book as early as possible.
Around 10 a.m., we were given the green light. We were warned that the snow would still be quite challenging—and we’re offered the opportunity to back out—but the guides felt that our group should be able to handle the conditions. We all put on our avalanche beacons, grabbed our skis and headed for the hills.
Once at the top, our guides, Andy and Gail, pointed out the 900 acres of snowcat-served terrain, which tops out on Dog Ridge at 12,134 feet. Most of it is advanced with some dabbling in super-steep skiing (if you want lots of scare-the-pants-off-you terrain, you won’t find it here). With the day’s conditions making skiing so technical, we’d be sticking to the so-called easiest slopes—those with the least exposure to the elements. Fine by me…and everyone else in the cat.
While the winds had died down, they were still fierce, packing gusts so strong it felt like we’d be blown off the mountain. It was a real head trip and all of us were eager to get off the ridgelines and into the more protected areas on the mountain. The problem sometimes was just getting off the ridge: The snow tended to be breakable crust on the traverses, causing some hilarious cartwheeling falls that injured pride but not bones. And while the snow became more manageable once we were off the ridgelines, it was still demanding and seemed to change its consistency every couple turns.
Despite the tricky snow, it was easy to see why Monarch’s snowcat terrain gets rave reviews. It’s draped across the Continental Divide where the Sawatch Mountains and the Sangre de Cristos collide. Whether you prefer to romp in wide-open bowls, gullies, steeps or trees, the guides can get you to it. And Mother Nature coats them all in an average of 350 feet of snow.
The snow tended to be breakable crust on the traverses, causing some hilarious cartwheeling falls that injured pride but not bones.
While the runs average less than 1,000 vertical feet, it just means you’ll cram in more runs during the day. And when the snow is less than stellar, it’s nice not to have to fight several thousand vertical feet of it. Somehow, our rides in the cat laughing and congratulating each other on lines well done made us forget that we were about to tackle the wind-hammered snow all over again. Post traumatic stress syndrome? Perhaps. But more likely, it was the easy camaraderie that formed between the guides and guests.
A break for lunch required us to ski out to the base lodge, where we ate a rejuvenating meal in the restaurant. Our bodies had been fighting the elements, and they craved the rest and sustenance. Within the hour, though, we were all ready to head back up the Breezeway lift, where we’d hook up with the cat. Since we had a small group, there was room in the cat for a few ski patrollers to join us. Now that’s a nice job perk!
On this day, we skied low-angle gullies, short chutes, open bowls and trees. We found breakable crust, wind-groomed hardpack, whipping whirligigs of powder, even sections of forgiving and deep snow—and depending on what the terrain was like, our confidence ranged from sinking doubt to euphoric triumph.
When all was said and done, despite our late start, we still squeezed in eight or nine runs. That was more than enough to leave us all feeling satisfied at the end of the day.
Hey, Don’t Forget About the Inbounds Skiing
What a difference a day makes. We woke up the next morning to warm temperatures, no wind and a brilliant blue sky that heralded an unexpected treat: a day of classic spring skiing.
Oh, baby. If I can’t have a powder day, give me a day of spring corn harvesting.
We were eager to explore the mountain to find out why so many skiers and riders are suddenly discovering this gem of a ski area in southern Colorado. It’s become a favorite of road trippers who like to hit up several ski areas on one trip to combine Monarch with Crested Butte, tossing at least one day of snowcat skiing into the mix. What we found proved that sometimes a little ski area can pack a big—and pleasant—surprise.
Monarch first opened in 1939, and while the mountain has seen many changes since then, it still retains its spirit of being a locals’ playground.
Monarch first opened in 1939, and while the mountain has seen many changes since then, it still retains its spirit of being a locals’ playground. It’s owned by a group of private investors who have made it their goal to preserve this small-mountain character. It didn’t take us long to realize that everyone who works here has a genuine smile and a friendly greeting. We think it’s a nice change of pace from the more hectic mega-resorts that Colorado is known for. No slopeside lodging, a charming historic district in nearby Salida, a town full of people who exude the outdoor lifestyle—this is our kind of place.
In stark contrast to the snowcat skiing that took us into open bowls above treeline, Monarch’s inbounds trails are carved out of a thick forest of pines. As avid tree skiers, we agreed that skiing inbounds at Monarch is all about the trees. With the soft snow, we soon found ourselves exploring everything from gentle learning glades to rollicking open trees to tight trees on short steep pitches.
Interestingly, while Monarch encourages skiing in its woods, you won’t find any names on the trail map. Go figure. However, the locals have names for all of them. So, here’s a little treasure hunt that requires meeting a local—or two or three or more—so you can find some of our favorite picks to get you started: Pinball, which describes the experience to a T, is guaranteed to make skiers and riders of all abilities chortle the whole way down. On the other hand, Suicide Trees, which aren’t nearly as terrifying as the name implies, are most appreciated by those already comfy in the woods. If you’re too shy to ask around, you can always go in search of the more obviously named B’s Trees, found on both sides of the trail from which they steal their name.
The joy of it all is that
the combination of trees and trails makes Monarch feel much bigger than it is.
Once you see that you can dip into just about any tree shot you pass by, you’ll quickly scour the map in search of new possibilities. Yes, you can—and might want to—spend all day in the trees here.
Don’t get me wrong, we grinned and giggled on the trails too. Monarch’s trails follow the natural contours of the mountain, so at times we meandered our way down admiring spectacular views, while at others we zipped across undulating rolls, banks and berms. In fact, Slo-Motion’s rolling terrain prompted resort staff to create the K2 Organic Terrain Park—its constantly evolving features take advantage of the trail’s inherent fun factor. We’re certainly not park rats, but we still had a blast playing on these features.
The joy of it all is that the combination of trees and trails makes Monarch feel much bigger than it is. And it’s easy for groups of varying abilities to stay near each other, since you can dip in and out of woods along the way.
If you crave lots of space, you’re not completely out of luck. It takes about 10-15 minutes to hike to Mirkwood Basin, which used to be part of the snowcat operation (and is still used to funnel snowcat clients back to the base area). With a hike that’s a fairly mild one, it’s worth heading to Mirkwood if you’re itching for open bowls, steeper terrain and trees as thick as thieves.
Because of its all-natural snow coverage and lack of crowds, Monarch is no doubt the place to be when the heavens release a winter storm. We couldn’t help but leave with thoughts of “next time, we’ll hit it on a powder day.”
For more pictures of Monarch Mountain, please visit the “Skiing & Snowboarding” album in our Photo Galleries.