Fernie Alpine Resort:
Not For the Faint of Heart
Perhaps you’ve heard the fervent whispers about Fernie already: You’ll find some of the steepest terrain you’ll ever see inbounds, and what’s out-of-bounds is free for the taking too. The snow here is unbelievable—deep and light and almost magical. The terrain seems unlimited—if you see it, and can get to it, you can ski it. There are no crowds, so you have the mountain practically to yourself. Of course, all this tantalizing lore is shared with the necessary forewarning, “We’re only telling you this because we know you’ll keep it to yourself.”
Fernie Alpine Resort
British Columbia, Canada
Address: 5339 Ski Hill Rd.
Fernie, BC Canada V0B 1M6
Ski area phone: (250) 423-4655
Snow report: (250) 423-3555
or (800) 258-7669
Toll-free reservations:
(800) 258-7669 or (866) 633-7643
E-mail: info@skifernie.com
Internet: www.skifernie.com
Well, diehards really have nothing to worry about, because Fernie is not for the faint of heart. While every bowl has some groomed terrain, most terrain is left the way Mother Nature made it—and that’s the way Fernie’s fans want it to be. Fernie has some of the steepest inbounds terrain you’ll find at any resort in North America. Because of that, there are many inbound areas prone to avalanches. These areas are well marked, but you should know what to look for. If you suddenly come upon warning signs, pay close attention. Literally, one section can be marked green to go, while just a few hundred feet farther, you’ll find danger signs telling you to steer clear. About 60 professional patrollers, all trained in avalanche safety and explosives, keep Fernie under watchful eye, so make sure to thank them for paying such attention to life-saving details.
When we visited in March, we woke up one morning to powderhounds drooling over the thigh-deep dump of snow. Fortunately we were signed up for the First Tracks program so we snorkled snow—and giggled uncontrollably—for an hour before the rest of the horde hit the slopes. Some friends who stayed longer enjoyed two more days of freshies before dragging their heels back to the East Coast.
Fernie, tucked into the craggy Lizard Range of the Canadian Rockies, is several hours from civilization and caters to a casual crowd that comes here for one thing and one thing only: the allure of the mountain. It can easily be lumped in with other resorts known to worship the zen of skiing: Red Mountain, Alta, Snowbird, Crested Butte, Jay Peak. In fact, it is reminiscent of Red Mountain and Rossland, only a bit more grown up. Much of the mountainside village is just a few years old and includes lodging, restaurants, apres-ski bars, coffee shops and a grocery store. Fernie, owned by Resorts of the Canadian Rockies, has plans for expansion both in the slopeside village and on the mountain. Fortunately, there isn’t a lot of room for village expansion, so this resort should stay as intimate and laid-back as it is right now.
Fernie can easily be lumped in with other resorts known to worship the zen of skiing: Red Mountain, Alta, Snowbird, Crested Butte, Jay Peak.
The turn-of-the-century coal mining town of Fernie is just 3 miles away. The main street, 2nd Avenue, is actually parallel to the road you’ll travel on into town. Fernie burned down twice during the early 1900s and, when it was rebuilt in 1910, builders were required by code to use brick and stone. The result is a colorful blend of shops, restaurants, clubs and bars.
If you’re driving from Calgary, you’ll see what’s left of the Frank Slide in Alberta—giant limestone boulders litter the area, starting on Turtle Mountain to the left and crossing beyond the line of sight to your right. While the Native Americans knew better than to live in the mountain’s slide path, the white settlers learned the hard way when their town was destroyed twice.
Fernie is ripe with legends, including the powder-making Griz, honored with an annual winter carnival, and the curse-bearing Ghostrider, who appears in the shadows of Mount Hosmer. Ask any local, they love to share their history.
Exploring the Mountain
Fernie consists of five seemingly limitless bowls of pure delight that dump you into gut-wrenching steeps and chutes, gnarly trees, gentle glades and thrilling trails. All have terrain for all abilities; it’s really a matter of taking the time to explore each and deciding on your favorite. It’s easy to spend all day exploring one bowl. If you can see it, you can ski it—and sometimes you can’t see it till you work your way to it! Obviously, the more adventurous you are, the more you’ll want to take a traverse to its end. There’s nothing more exciting than deciding whether to duck down or keep going in search of the goods.
We’re sure we don’t have to tell you that the best goods don’t have names, but we’ll start you off with some suggestions.
What can we say? It doesn’t get better than this for expert and advanced skiers and riders. Explore to your heart’s content. Some traverses cross very steep terrain and if you’re prone to vertigo, be prepared, but it’s worth getting over it. We’re sure we don’t have to tell you that the best goods don’t have names, but we’ll start you off with some suggestions. Find the “idiot’s traverse” in Timber Bowl and head to some sweet trees off Diamond Back and in Anaconda Glades and Gotta Go, or head to Cedar Bowl and jump into King Fir and Cedar Ridge. Bootleg Glades have a sphincter-tightening drop-in, but you’ll enjoy the goods once you overcome it. Surprize got its name after an avalanche etched it into the mountain.
After a storm, take the Lizard Traverse at least halfway across before dropping into wide-open, floatable powder. Siberia Bowl has some great powder stashes too. On clear days after a snowfall, follow the “leaping lemmings” line out of Currie Bowl and up to Polar Peak. And for days after, when much of the mountain is skied off, don’t despair, you’ll still find powder in the trees off Decline, leading into Easter Bowl and Lizard Bowl. Skip the chutes off the ridge between Currie and Lizard bowls if there hasn’t been a fresh snowfall—otherwise they are guaranteed death slides. Check with the ski patrol before going into the out-of-bounds Fish Bowl; rescues are often necessary there.
If you’re an intermediate who loves long cruisers, you’ll get bored rather quickly. But if you’re ready to test your skills and move to the ungroomed and trees, this is the mountain for you. All of the bowls have very nice intermediate terrain, just search for what you want: small bumps, ungroomed, semi-steep or trees. It’s easy to dip in and out off the groomed trails as you gain confidence. You’ll have great fun on Currie Powder and Currie Glades, wandering farther afield as you get more adventurous. The trees in Timber Bowl and Currie Bowl are fabulous ego-boosters. Dancer, Cascade and Bow in Lizard Bowl are wide-open slopes perfect for learning powder.
The best bet for snowboarders is to explore each bowl thoroughly before moving on to the next one so as to minimize some of the traversing.
While Fernie has excellent beginner terrain that’s nicely separated from other ability levels, it’s still adventurous by most standards. Your best bet is to join a ski week group, where instructors can help you overcome any trepidation you may have.
The word on the street is that if you learn to ski here, you’ll advance more rapidly than at most other resorts. This is a very challenging mountain. First-timers should join a ski week program to avoid being overly intimidated.
Fernie’s natural terrain is a big draw to snowboarders. But you’ll find Fernie a challenge simply because of all the traverses. To access the best-kept secrets, you’ll have to follow some harrowing traverses that are lo-o-ong excursions. However, the snowboarders we talked to all said the great terrain is worth every bit of the agony it requires to get to it. Your best bet is to explore each bowl thoroughly before moving on to the next one so as to minimize some of the traversing (such as to get back from the Haul Back T-bar). You definitely want to avoid the very long run-out at the bottom of Falling Star, where you’ll end up walking out—most riders only use it when they return from hiking in the backcountry on this side of the mountain or if they play in the terrain park.