Crested Butte:
Going to Extremes
While the mountain, it is a changin’, under the new ownership of Tim and Diane Mueller, Crested Butte is still the “anti resort” of Colorado—even though there’s no shortage of amenities, it oozes a hardcore ski bum atmosphere from every pore (although lately, the ski bums are building million-dollar homes). The question is: Can the Muellers attract more skier visits to the resort without losing its soul? We sure hope so.
Crested Butte Mountain Resort
Colorado
Address: P.O. Box 5700,
12 Snowmass Road
Mt. Crested Butte, CO 81225
Ski area phone: (970) 349-2222
Snow report: (970) 349-2323
or (888) 442-8883
Toll-free reservations:
(800) 810-7669
E-mail: info@cbmr.com
Internet: www.skicb.com (ski resort);
crestedbuttechamber.com (chamber
of commerce);
www.gunnisoncrestedbutte.com (Gunnison-Crested Butte Tourism Association)
Crested Butte is the real deal: residents who exude warmth and friendliness, a majestic mountain and a National Historic District for a town. The folks today have that same spirit of ruggedness and optimism associated with its mining town past. And that’s what sets Crested Butte apart from many other resorts. You can’t create this kind of experience from nothing, it’s built on a town’s history and on its people.
The resort is first and foremost known for its extreme terrain, with more than 500 acres of double-blacks that mostly require some sweat to get to them. Longtime locals talk about finding new lines every season and that’s not hard to believe. Some traverses require a lot of work and take you across exposed steeps that need at least a five-foot base and new snow on top to boot. Since there are so many excellent choices for dropping in, it’s easy to give up and leave the untouched bounty beyond for more patient—and perhaps intrepid—souls.
Beginners and intermediates can rest assured that you won’t find yourselves in over your heads. Fortunately, the trail layout nicely separates your runs from the scary stuff. Recent development has, in fact, made us wish we were beginners all over again. Not only is the beginner terrain gentle and extensive, it has its own midmountain cabin with in-your-face views of the main mountain, plus food service and outdoor seating so taking a break is not only a physical rest, it gives peace of mind too. From this same midmountain cabin, intermediates access blue-squares off the backside that are sure to bring grins, whether you prefer groomers, rollicking wood shots or trails left au natural.
Longtime locals talk about finding new lines every season and that’s not hard to believe.
Crested Butte is home to two high-profile competitions: the 16th Annual U.S. Extreme Freeskiing Championships and the Telemark Extreme Championships. Add the locals’ penchant for celebrating anything related to snow, skiing and the great outdoors, and you’ve got a real party on your hands.
The Muellers, who also own Okemo Mountain, Vt., purchased Crested Butte Mountain Resort in March 2004 and will spend more than $200 million on a resort-wide makeover. One of the on-mountain changes that is instantly noticeable is the perfectly manicured trails, which shouldn’t be a surprise given Okemo’s reputation for excellent grooming. More snowmaking goes hand-in-hand with this effort to make the lower mountain a better experience for beginners and intermediates. One complaint by high-intermediate and advanced skiers and riders is that the resort isn’t leaving as much ungroomed for them to develop their skills on. Perhaps the resort will pay heed and remember that people who ski here are a bit more adventurous in spirit and want to push themselves to the next level of skiing and riding.
The new Mt. Crested Butte base village called “Mountaineer Square,” which includes a conference center, aquatic/civic center, visitor center and upscale lodging, is scheduled to have the first phase open in Spring 2007. Also new for 2006/07, a high-speed quad will replace the East River chair, and the beginner and first-timer areas will see more improvements.
Exploring the Mountain
Be aware that the trail map warns of extreme terrain, marked “EX,” but you won’t see anything with that label on the map. It is possible at any time while on double-blacks to come upon sections with EX trail signs. Anyone who plans to spend extensive time in the Extreme Limits should consider buying the Extreme Limits Ski Guide, a trail map that covers this territory in depth.
Watch skiers work their way through rocky chutes to launch themselves off 40-foot cliffs and you know you are among some of the most elite skiers on the planet.
Crested Butte does not offer any gates to the backcountry and it is illegal to go out of bounds here—given the extensiveness of cliffs, chutes and other extreme features, it is wise to heed this law if only so you live another day.
The overwhelming sense of “feeling exposed” is the first hint that Crested Butte is no ordinary mountain. Then watch skiers work their way through rocky chutes to launch themselves off 40-foot cliffs and you know you are among some of the most elite skiers on the planet. Yes, you can reach some of this signature terrain right off the lifts, but wanderlust inevitably takes hold and before you know it, you’re exploring in search of more fresh tracks, the best lines and more adrenaline thrills. Whether you’re on skis or a board, be ready to hike out from most of the Extreme Limits and Teocalli Bowl.
Ordinarily, we like to be left to our own accord so we can explore and discover secrets on our own. However, Crested Butte’s steeps are different from most resorts, filled with unexpected cliff bands and routes that are best left untouched if there’s not enough snow. If you can make friends with a local or hire a mountain guide, it’s a good idea so you can get a feel for the mountain. Pitches in the Extreme Limits average 39 to 44 degrees, and extreme terrain is described by the Ski Safety Act as “cliffs with a minimum 20 foot rise over a 15 foot run and slopes with a minimum 50 degree average pitch over a 100 foot run.” If that doesn’t make you think twice before venturing out, then nothing will.
To find where the untracked snow stays longest, work your way out to the farthest reaches of Teocalli Bowl and Third Bowl. When the weather and snow conditions are right, consider hiking to the summit, taking in the view, and floating turns down The Peak or Hall of Fame. For a chute that’s wide enough for some error but sure to give you rubber legs because of its 2,000-foot descent, try the 40-plus-degree Banana and its sister chute Funnel. Because they’re west-facing chutes, Banana, Peel and Sunset Ridge are ideal on a spring day afternoon. If you like a lot of vertical in one run, this section of the mountain has the most.
Crested Butte has added intermediate terrain, all linked by conveniently placed lifts, making it easy to work your way across the mountain to get to increasingly more demanding runs.
Advanced skiers and riders will find trails that are long and steep, but Crested Butte doesn’t have many single-diamonds and the double-diamonds are demanding. If you’re adventurous, try the double-blacks that are just off lifts, which will cut down on long and exposed traverses—Peel, The Glades, Rachel’s, and Half Pipe Gully into Headwall are good choices. If you prefer groomed terrain, you’ll be relegated mostly to the realm of the blue-square, which can give you a rush but won't be challenging.
Crested Butte has added intermediate terrain, all linked by conveniently placed lifts, making it easy to work your way across the mountain to get to increasingly more demanding runs. Warm up on the Gold Link and Prospect lifts, exclusively serving intermediates. From here, head to the Teocalli and East River lifts for yet more isolation from faster skiers.
When you’re ready for a big-mountain experience, Paradise Bowl awaits. It stretches far and wide like an empty canvas waiting for you to paint your masterpiece of powder turns. From here, put it in auto-drive down lovely, long trails such as Treasury, Ruby Chief, Forest Queen, Bushwacker and Gallowich. Be prepared to feel weak in the legs by the time you reach the bottom.
Kids can find plenty of fun in the glades off the Gold Link, Prospect and Red Lady lifts—they’re more like luge runs though the trees. Keep an eye out for the signs with cartoon characters pointing the way. Be sure to pick up a kids’ trail map too.
Kids can find plenty of fun in the glades off the Gold Link, Prospect and Red Lady lifts—they’re more like luge runs though the trees.
The beginner trails off Red Lady Express are wide open and plentiful. Solid beginners and lower-intermediates will have a ball here. For a change of scenery, head up Painter Boy Lift and take Gunsight Pass around the back of the mountain to the Teocalli Lift, which drops you off at the top of the same area served by Red Lady Express. Be sure to stop by the midmountain cabin and outdoor seating at the top of the Painter Boy lift when you need a break. Confident beginners should try the wide-open intermediate cruisers off Gold Link. Timid beginners will enjoy Houston as well as skiing off the Peachtree and Painter Boy lifts.
The resort has a terrific learning setup. First-timers are separated into one area for adults and another for kids, each served by a moving carpet. Kids also have a small snow play zone where they can get used to moving around on skis. After you’re comfortable on the three trails off Peachtree Lift, head to Red Lady Express and try the ultra-gentle Houston. Houston also takes you to Painter Boy Lift and more heavenly green slopes.
For snowboarders, the most notable flat is returning to the Red Lady Express after riding Peak, Peel, Banana, Funnel and Forest. This flat is so long, you could write a short story while you’re on it…or at least a postcard to your friends back home.